[sebhc] hard sector substitute

[Carroll Waddell]

Dwight K. Elvey wrote:

>>From: "Carroll Waddell" <CarrollWaddell at sc.rr.com>
>>
>>Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Hi
>>>I think you guys are getting a little carried away.
>>>A simple manual system is all that is needed unless
>>>you expect to go into production. One can make a simple
>>>manual punch with a section of drill stock and something
>>>as simple as a brass block to guide it. One can put some
>>>holes on the pulley to use as detent stops to align the
>>>punch on the disk. 
>>>When I find time, that is exactly what I intend to do.
>>>I have all the parts and I'm just waiting for the time
>>>to deal with it. This isn't a high tech problem.
>>>Dwight
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>>>From: "Carroll Waddell" <CarrollWaddell at sc.rr.com>
>>>>
>>>>Dave Dunfield wrote:
>>>>
>>>>   
>>>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>>>>Dave,
>>>>>>I've been thinking about this. What I thought about was modifying an old 
>>>>>>diskette drive to punch the holes automatically. It would have to be 
>>>>>>            
>>>>>>
>---snip---
>  
>
>>> 
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>I do have serious mental problems. I just left the hardware store 
>>looking for something I could use.
>>My name in a former life was probably Rube Goldberg.
>>CEW
>>    
>>
>
>Hi Carroll
> One could make the punch rod from either a #39 drill ( 0.0995" ) or
>a #38 drill ( 0.1015" ). Either of these is most likely within
>specs. Drill rod is best to use but just hacking up a drill would
>work as well.
> One could use a hard sectored disk to align the detents or
>a good index wheel. The small lathe I have has a thread cutting
>set. This can also be used to index as well with a little
>cleaverness. I expect to mount part of the punch on the body
>of the drive ( old SA400 ). The other part would mount
>on the moving arm of the disk door latch. I'd clamp it
>down and then drill the holes to align correctly. Drilling
>both at the same time would help the alignment. The bottom
>hole could actually be slightly larger. I'd suspect that
>one could drill this with a #38 and use the end of a #39
>as the actual punch. One would need to sharpen and make
>the punch rod have a saddle like shape.
> The block on the body would need a relief hole on side.
>to let the pieces fall out.
>Dwight
>
>
>
>--
>Delivered by the SEBHC Mailing List
>
>  
>
Those are the 2 drills I was looking at.
CEW